Thank you so much for your interest in Kitchen Table Jewelry!
This information on tools and materials will make it easy for you to get ready and make the most of the class. Note the only tools required for the first class are those described under PRIMARY TOOLS below. Please get in touch if you have any questions. I'm looking forward to meeting you and seeing what you'll create!
SOURCES
*If you buy new tools for this class, be sure to keep the receipts and packaging until you are sure that they will work for you.*
Hardwick's (4214 Roosevelt Way NE) is a great source for a huge range of lower-priced and used tools, as well as some jewelry tools (eg bench pins, needle files). Sometimes I will buy a cheap version of a tool there to try it out, then upgrade later. The store can be a little frantic, but be patient, and when someone waits on you show them this list.
Seattle Findings (500 Union Street, #310) is more expensive but has tools and supplies specifically for making jewelry.
Other local sources for tools and materials include Jo-Ann, Alexander's Bead Bazaar (6307 Roosevelt Way NE) and Fusion Beads (3830 Stone Way N).
Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) sells almost everything you can think of, including tools and precious metals. If you plan to buy sterling from them, see if someone else in the class would like to combine orders with you--you'll save on shipping and get a price break if your order goes over a certain amount.
And of course, online sources such as eBay and Etsy can be useful if you have the time to hunt.
Finally, your friends and neighbors can be a great source of used tools; many people have taken one or two jewelry classes but didn't pursue it any further (just what we're trying to avoid in this class!).
MATERIALS
I will provide a kit with enough of these materials for you to work on the class projects, but if there are particular materials you wish to use (eg more sterling, semiprecious beads, found objects) please feel free to bring them to class:
sterling for earwires, practice beads, brass/copper/aluminum sheet, base metal wire, jumprings, handouts
SUPPLIES
I will provide these consumables for class use, but if you are going to work at home you may want to have them around:
jewelers' sawblades, beeswax, dish soap, propane gas (for torch), home pickle (we will go over this in class), tiny drill bits, sharpies, sandpaper
This information on tools and materials will make it easy for you to get ready and make the most of the class. Note the only tools required for the first class are those described under PRIMARY TOOLS below. Please get in touch if you have any questions. I'm looking forward to meeting you and seeing what you'll create!
SOURCES
*If you buy new tools for this class, be sure to keep the receipts and packaging until you are sure that they will work for you.*
Hardwick's (4214 Roosevelt Way NE) is a great source for a huge range of lower-priced and used tools, as well as some jewelry tools (eg bench pins, needle files). Sometimes I will buy a cheap version of a tool there to try it out, then upgrade later. The store can be a little frantic, but be patient, and when someone waits on you show them this list.
Seattle Findings (500 Union Street, #310) is more expensive but has tools and supplies specifically for making jewelry.
Other local sources for tools and materials include Jo-Ann, Alexander's Bead Bazaar (6307 Roosevelt Way NE) and Fusion Beads (3830 Stone Way N).
Rio Grande (www.riogrande.com) sells almost everything you can think of, including tools and precious metals. If you plan to buy sterling from them, see if someone else in the class would like to combine orders with you--you'll save on shipping and get a price break if your order goes over a certain amount.
And of course, online sources such as eBay and Etsy can be useful if you have the time to hunt.
Finally, your friends and neighbors can be a great source of used tools; many people have taken one or two jewelry classes but didn't pursue it any further (just what we're trying to avoid in this class!).
MATERIALS
I will provide a kit with enough of these materials for you to work on the class projects, but if there are particular materials you wish to use (eg more sterling, semiprecious beads, found objects) please feel free to bring them to class:
sterling for earwires, practice beads, brass/copper/aluminum sheet, base metal wire, jumprings, handouts
SUPPLIES
I will provide these consumables for class use, but if you are going to work at home you may want to have them around:
jewelers' sawblades, beeswax, dish soap, propane gas (for torch), home pickle (we will go over this in class), tiny drill bits, sharpies, sandpaper
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PRIMARY TOOLS
These are the absolutely essential tools that you should bring to the first class: pliers, bench pin, and a jewelers' sawframe. 1. *PLIERS at least two pairs Things to consider when choosing pliers size: Pick pliers that fit comfortably in your hands. springs: Some pliers are "spring-loaded"; a tiny spring automatically reopens the tool after you squeeze it closed. Not really necessary unless you anticipate getting into making chains or chainmail. shape: The business end of pliers can come in about 1000 different shapes. For beginning jewelry, get at least one pair of needle-nosed round jaw (each side has a round cross-section and tapers to a point) and one pair of slim flat jaw (where the sides meet is flat and about 1/4"-3/8" wide). polish: Check that pliers are smooth, without pits, rough spots, or rust. hinges: Look at a pair of pliers from the side: the hinge will either be made up of two parts (a lap joint) or three parts (a box joint). Lapped pliers are usually cheaper but less durable; if you anticipate wanting to continue with jewelry, consider investing in pliers with a box joint hinge. |
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2. *BENCH PIN
This is your portable work surface, a small flat piece of wood with notches cut out of it. Buy one that comes with a metal clamp that allows you to attach it to a desk or table. On more expensive models the clamp has a large polished metal top that you can use as a surface for hammering on.
3. *JEWELERS SAWFRAME
The jewelers' saw looks like a big skinny P. The blades pinch into the frame and are easy to change (and easy to break!). Like pliers, it comes in a lot of versions. I've been using the frame in the picture for more than 10 years; it's a lower-priced professional model, similar to this one: http://www.seattlefindings.com/Adjustable-Sawframe-Swiss_p_717.html
depth: This is the measure of space between the blade and the back of the frame. A good basic is 3" or 4".
adjustability: Some frames are fixed and cannot change height. An adjustable frame has an extra screw in the frame that lets you make it shorter or taller. If you can afford this, I'd recommend it, since I've found that saw blades are not always the same length.
hardware: Cheaper frames have less precise and less ergonomic screws. Again, if you think you might use your saw a lot, think about an upgrade.
handle: Some saws have wooden handles, others have plastic or rubber; this is a matter of personal preference more than function.
This is your portable work surface, a small flat piece of wood with notches cut out of it. Buy one that comes with a metal clamp that allows you to attach it to a desk or table. On more expensive models the clamp has a large polished metal top that you can use as a surface for hammering on.
3. *JEWELERS SAWFRAME
The jewelers' saw looks like a big skinny P. The blades pinch into the frame and are easy to change (and easy to break!). Like pliers, it comes in a lot of versions. I've been using the frame in the picture for more than 10 years; it's a lower-priced professional model, similar to this one: http://www.seattlefindings.com/Adjustable-Sawframe-Swiss_p_717.html
depth: This is the measure of space between the blade and the back of the frame. A good basic is 3" or 4".
adjustability: Some frames are fixed and cannot change height. An adjustable frame has an extra screw in the frame that lets you make it shorter or taller. If you can afford this, I'd recommend it, since I've found that saw blades are not always the same length.
hardware: Cheaper frames have less precise and less ergonomic screws. Again, if you think you might use your saw a lot, think about an upgrade.
handle: Some saws have wooden handles, others have plastic or rubber; this is a matter of personal preference more than function.
SECONDARY TOOLS
If you are able to bring these tools, you may find them useful. I will have a limited number of these tools for student use and I can give you shopping advice:
assorted metal files, needle files, "eggbeater" drill, pin vise, tweezers
OTHER TOOLS
This is a preview of some other tools that we will probably use during the 4 weeks of class; we will discuss them prior to use and I will provide a limited number for the group to share. You may have some around the house or you may be able to borrow them from a friend, but don't rush out an buy everything before getting a sense of what will be useful for you:
brass brush, benchblock, hammers, letter stamps, wire gauge, deadblow hammer, snips, torch, center punch, pin vise, scribe, templates, spool, crochet hook, mandrels, jig
If you are able to bring these tools, you may find them useful. I will have a limited number of these tools for student use and I can give you shopping advice:
assorted metal files, needle files, "eggbeater" drill, pin vise, tweezers
OTHER TOOLS
This is a preview of some other tools that we will probably use during the 4 weeks of class; we will discuss them prior to use and I will provide a limited number for the group to share. You may have some around the house or you may be able to borrow them from a friend, but don't rush out an buy everything before getting a sense of what will be useful for you:
brass brush, benchblock, hammers, letter stamps, wire gauge, deadblow hammer, snips, torch, center punch, pin vise, scribe, templates, spool, crochet hook, mandrels, jig